REMINISCENCES OF THE PHILLIPS FAMILY
By: Mary E Phillips.

 

FROM HITCHIN TO BROADWATER FARM

As I think it may be interesting to the rising generation to know something of their ancestors and the places they lived in etc., I am going to try and jot down a few particulars.

 

There is a genealogical chart of the Phillips family, dating as far back as 1610 when William Phillips resided at Radwell Grange, near Hitchin. From that time up to my father’s I believe the eldest son on each generation has been a well-to-do farmer.

 

Several generations back the baptisms of the family are registered in the parish Church at Baldock, but when the ancestors of our branch of the family became a member of the Society of Friends I do not know.

 

 My Great-Grandfather must have settled in Tottenham about the year1746, as I have heard my father tell me that he rode up part of the way from Royston in company with the escort bringing the Scotch Lords Kilmarnock, Cromarty and Balmarino to be tried for high treason on account of their support of the young pretender. Cromarty was liberated, but the other two were beheaded on Tower Hill in 1746. They were the last two men to suffer this penalty.

 

My Great-Grandfather Thomas Phillips’ first residence in Tottenham was the house, now much altered and made into two residences, lying on the east side of Tottenham Green, north of the hospital. His father having died, he must soon after have moved with the rest of his family to an estate which was standing, in my younger days, on the site now occupied by the Broadway. He farmed all the land up to the New River, and covering where the Seven Sisters Road now runs. My father remembers the making of this road for the purpose of having easy access between the West End of London and Cambridge.

 

The flying coach is a memory of my early childhood; later on came the Great Eastern Railway. I remember the important event of the Queen and Prince Albert coming by rail from Cambridge to the Hale station and driving thence to Buckingham Palace, when my childish veneration for Royalty received a rude shock from seeing Prince Albert in a Holland coat, the sort of garment my father only wore in the hayfield.

 

In the year 1798 my Great-Grandfather Thomas Phillips died and his sons Michael and John, bought that portion of Duckett’s Farm known as Grainger’s Farm of sixty-nine acres for £3,890. Neither of them resided on this property, but at the adjoining farm called Broadwaters, which they rented from Chauncey Townsend Esq. As yearly tenants until 1861, a period of 70 years. The latter farm was more conveniently situated as a residence, and they added considerably to the house, the builder being Hobson, who built the Martello Towers along the southern coast of England for the purpose of repelling the expected invasion of Napoleon Bonaparte and his army. So great was the fear of a French Invasion that an inventory was taken of the horses, carts and implements on this farm and others around London, in case this event took place.

 

The elder brother Michael Phillips, who never married, took up his residence at Broadwaters farm, while John, with his wife (nee Elizabeth Brown of Luton) and their four children John, Mary, Daniel and Rebecca, lived in the house in the High Road, now occupied by Dr Plaister.


 

 WORKING THE FARMS AND OTHER FAMILY HISTORY 
 

 Grandmother Phillips, whose portrait I possess, and who died when I was 6 years old, was the daughter of Daniel Brown, a miller of Luton. Most of the land at that time was in the hands of a wealthy potentate, and Daniel Brown had consequently great difficulty in obtaining a vote for Parliament. He finally obtained one by offering the owner of a plot of land three times its value as estimated by the potentate referred to; “for every pound that man has offered I will give three” closed the bargain.

 

In those days the belief prevailed that the being dipped in seawater was a preservative from rabies, and the younger Daniel having been bitten by a mad dog, his father posted with him to Margate, hired a boat, and had the boy dipped in seawater to within an inch of his life. The elder Daniel Brown had a conscientious objection to the custom of the day of carrying firearms as a protection from highway men. Hitchin, seven miles off, was the market for Luton goods, and I have heard that one night on his way home after selling his flour he was set upon by the highwaymen, whose usual manner of attack was for a man to spring out from either side of the road and for each to seize a rein. A smart touch from Daniel Brown’s whip caused the horse to plunge and free itself, and thus its master escaped being robbed; he was the only one of the eight travellers who traversed the road that night who had this good fortune, which our great grandfather attribute to his being unarmed, as instead of fumbling for a pistol when the attack was made, his hand was free to use the whip. I have also heard that at the time of the bread riots this ancestor threw out every sack of flour and corn from his mill to save its being set on fire. His son Daniel, who survived the dog bite, was a much beloved Uncle, and a visit to him and Aunt Lydia is amongst the most pleasant memories of my childhood. We drove all the way from Tottenham to Luton, a distance of 27 miles, lunching and baiting the horses at St Albans, and coming home after a few days visit in the same style. Luton was the centre of the straw plaiting industry, and I learnt the art, but to make enough plait for a hat or bonnet needed more continuous effort than a child, not forced to the work, as hundreds of children were, could be expected to accomplish.

 

The two sons of John Phillips, John and Daniel, as soon as schooldays were over, chiefly resided with their Uncle, and helped him in the management and working of the two farms. It was in those days that the following incident occurred. Michael Phillips’ sister Elizabeth Lambert was on a visit to him, when one evening while he was from home three men knocked at the door, and on its being opened rushed into the house. They had masks on their faces, and one, holding a pistol at Elizabeth Lambert, obliged her to show them the valuables in the house. Fortunately a boy who was in the house saw the state of affairs, and tearing out of the back door ran down to the Red Lion public house in the High Road, where he found some soldiers who returned with him, and so hotly pursued the thieves across the fields that in order to escape they dropped most of their ill gotten gains.

 

Aunt Lambert was so frightened that, although over 70 years of age, she ran down Lordship Lane to the nearest residence in Wood Green (a mile).  I do not know whether it was before or after this event that three Yearly Meeting guests were stopped by three highwaymen just opposite Bruce Castle at the entrance to Bruce Grove, (then merely a path across the fields), who robbed them of £90. These men were afterwards convicted of another similar offence and hanged.

 

     

LORDSHIP LANE -PRE DEVELOPMENT- ROAD TOWARDS WOOD GREEN -          EARLY MAP SHOWING BROADWATER FARM IN LORDSHIP LANE

It must have been in those days that stories of the body-snatchers had birth. After the burial of a body in the churchyard of the Parish Church it was customary to set a watchman to guard it, but he was supposed to be in collusion with the snatchers, and to show the light of his lantern in such a manner that they knew when it would be safe for them to carry out their gruesome theft. The passing of their cart was not unfrequently heard at night, and once it was supposed that daylight made their work dangerous, a corpse was found hidden under one of the hay stacks. In those days there were no police, and the old watchman who cried the hours of night only perambulated the more frequented roads.

After the death of Michael and John Phillips my father became the tenant of Broadwaters and the owner of Graingers Farm. To the former he brought his wife in the year 1839. Mary Payne was the daughter of Peter and Ann Payne, who had at one time resided at Tottenham, in the house then private but now occupied by West & Co. At that time, and indeed in my own early days, there were only fields where there now is the Landsdown Road, and she and my father *, John Pryor, who lived in Hertford and was the husband of the Mary Pryor of whom a short biography has been written (Story of 100 years ago), was a very hale old man, and over 80 years of age would ride from Hertford on horseback before breakfast, take that meal with his daughter and her family in Tottenham, then go on to London and transact business, and back to Hertford in the evening – a distance altogether of 32 miles. I do not know whether it was of this John Pryor or his father that it had been said that he was the first man to introduce turnips into the Hertford market. No one would buy any of the first load, and so he emptied the cartload out and left it, with the result that he never after had any difficulty in disposing of his turnips. John and Mary Pryor’s house was called ‘Waterside’. I once visited it, but the original houses, which surrounded three sides of a square, has now been formed into three residences.

* Original text suggests something has been omitted here ! 

 

My mother was 13 years of age when her father gave up his saddler’s business in London and moved to Wellington in Somersetshire, with his wife and three children, Anne, later married to J.H Balkwill of Plymouth, Reuben Craven who afterwards settled as a chemist at Bridgewater, and my mother.

 

Of our Payne ancestors we know little or nothing, as after his union with the Society of Friends Peter Payne seems to have had very little intercourse with his family. He had set up in business as a saddler in Cheapside, and at that time it was customary for gentlemen to have holsters for pistols fitted on their saddles, but Peter Payne, holding the views of his Society against bearing or using firearms, consistently refused to make saddles with these appurtenances; but such was his reputation for good work that saddles were bought of him and sent to other shops to have the holsters fitted. Having secured a modest competency he gave up his business at an early age, and as has been stated moved into the country. After Peter Payne’s death my mother lived with her mother until the latter’s death, shortly after which time, 1838, she married my father and came to his residence in Lordship Lane, known amongst a wide circle of relatives, friends and neighbours as The farm and here all their four children were born.

 

In my father’s days the house and its surroundings were a pattern of neatness, and the large stacks of hay were unequalled anywhere in size and appearance. Now the whole place has such a changed and shabby look, that I hardly like to point it out to the rising generation. The farm offered numberless joyful occupations for children, swings and see-saws in the barn, a Shetland pony to ride, garden to work in etc.; but the attractions were at their height in hay time. These joys were shared by many others, the rides down to the hay fields in the empty carts being especially delightful to the young. The hay season was a long one, as the whole farm was grass land. My father laid all the land down in grass shortly after the abolition of the cruel corn laws. He used to speak with horror of the days when the quarten loaf cost 1/10 ½, and how his Grand Father had said he was ashamed of his country when his wagon went out of the yard laden with £100 worth of corn.  My father rejoiced with the incoming of free trade, and repelled as an insult the suggestion that he should consider his pocket before the nation. One of my earliest recollections is that of his pointing out to me, as he drove to Enfield to record his vote for the free trade candidate, a man with a large and contrasting small loaf on a pole, and telling me he was going to vote for the man who wanted the poor to have cheap bread. 

 

Preparations for haymaking began directly the first wild rose was found in blossom, and I can remember the joy presenting one to father and his writing the same night for the five mowers to come up from Royston. The haymakers numbered nearly 100 and mostly slept on hay in the various outbuildings. My Mother had before her marriage joined the early band of Total Abstainers; when she came to Tottenham she found it the practice to brew and serve beer to the haymakers, but she soon arranged for coffee to take the place of beer, a change that was warmly welcomed


 


 MOVING TO TOTTENHAM HIGH ROAD AND LATER TOTTENHAM GREEN 

Up to the time I was 11 years old our education was mostly conducted by resident governesses. Of these ladies I have the pleasantest recollection. From that time until we all went to boarding schools, we daily attended schools in the town. My brothers spent some years at Henry Wilson’s school at Kendal, but finished as day boarders at the well-known Grove House school on Tottenham Green. I was sent to Emily Schnell’s at Brighton, finishing my career there when the school went into other hands.

 

Picture courtesy of Bruce Castle Museum and Archives

In 1861 we removed from the Farm into a larger house in the High Street, now no 575; by this time Tottenham had lost the appellation of “Village” but was far from the thronged district of today, and was still inhabited by numbers of well-to-do people. We went into the house six in family; nineteen years later only two of us were left there, my father and myself, and we moved into smaller quarters on the Green where I now reside. My brother John was married and lived in Plymouth, and Alfred was a Civil Engineer and engaged on various water supply undertakings, my sister had married and gone to New Zealand. Thus the nineteen years that elapsed between the change of residence was fraught with many important episodes in our family history.

Number 575 Tottenham High Road would originally have been opposite Sanchez Almshouses (Later Burgess's Store)

The location at number 575 High Road was also later to become the premises of Broadway Nankivell Builders Merchants.  

 

ELLEN PHILLIPS -DR ALEXANDER FOX - CHOLERA EPEDEMIC 1866

One of the most prominent was my sister’s tarriance in the London Hospital during the time of the Cholera epidemic of 1866. It came about in this wise. She had felt much inclined to study medicine, and had as a preliminary step become associated in work with Mrs. Garrett Anderson, and later had obtained leave to visit at the London Hospital daily in order to become better acquainted with what would be involved in undertaking the study of medicine. While thus engaged the epidemic of cholera broke out. To the London Hospital were sent the first cases, creating quite a panic amongst the staff, and some resignations followed. My sister offered as volunteer, and was accepted, and was at once placed in charge of the cholera wards, which filled with alarming rapidity.  

 

“Doctors differ, but patients die”, was the discouraging verdict of Sir Andrew Clark. I treasure for her descendants a paragraph from the Lancet dated July 28th 1866. It runs:-

“ In the Cholera wards of the London Hospital, in a scene of suffering and death, sufficient to try the stoutest heart, a lady volunteer nurse has passed her time since the beginning of the epidemic, moving from bed to bed in ceaseless efforts to comfort and relieve.  So very youthful and so very fair is this devoted girl, that it is difficult to control a feeling of pain at her presence under such circumstances. But she offered her help at a time when, from the sudden inroad of cases, such assistance was urgently required, and nobly has she followed her self sought duty. Wherever the need is greatest and the work hardest, there she is to be seen toiling, until her limbs almost refuse to sustain her; and the effect of the young creatures presence has been that the nurses have been encouraged by her never-failing courage and cheeriness, so that dread of the disease has been lost in efforts to combat it. This is an instance of devotion which it would be an insult to praise--- it needs only to be recorded”.  The Lancet 28th July.1866.

             

After reading this no one will be surprised to hear that Alexander Fox, who was studying in the Hospital, fell in love with Ellen Phillips and sought leave to make her his wife, which he finally obtained on condition that he would reside in London. He left the London Hospital and was appointed one of the special Medical Officers for the East End of London. At the close of the Cholera epidemic and after the death of our mother in 1868, having seen much of the need for better medical help for the poor of the district, Ellen Phillips with the help of Dr. Fox and myself opened a small house in Virginia Row as a dispensary for women and children, their father’s birthday gifts to the two sisters being used to defray the preliminary expenses, and they themselves undertaking the clerks, work and the dispensing. From the first day of opening in July 1867, the place was crowded, and very shortly it became necessary to reserve the dispensary for the treatment of children only. The unsatisfactory character of only out-patients treatment led to the removal to larger premises, 125 Hackney Road, in the following year, where arrangements were made for the opening of a small hospital for children with twelve beds, which had since developed into what is now known as the “Queens Hospital for Children, Hackney Road”.*

 

On the eve of the accomplishment of this purpose, Ellen Phillips health broke down. Finally her marriage with Alexander Fox took place at the Friend’s Meeting House, Tottenham, March 18th 1869, and soon after the couple left for New Zealand, and the history of the family from this time forward is familiar to the generation for whom I have penned these memorials.

 

·         Now the Queen Elizabeth Hospital for Children

 

1841 CENSUS - BROADWATER FARM (Mary E Phillips aged 6 Months)
Note the number of agricultural labourers at the address

 

1871 UK CENSUS- TOTTENHAM HIGH ROAD (Mary E Phillips - aged 30 Years)
Mary and her father John Phillips (now a widower) had moved to 575 High Road, Tottenham -Opposite Sanchez almshouses- see map below.




 

1891 UK CENSUS - TOTTENHAM FREEN ( Mary E Phillips aged 50 years)
Mary and her father John Phillips were now living at their house on Tottenham Green.

 

1911 UK CENSUS - SOUTHSIDE, TOTTENHAM GREEN ( Mary E Phillips -aged 70 Years)
Mary was now living with a companion and 4 servants at Tottenham Green. This census would have been completed by Mary as the Householder and, in all probability, this was her original handwriting.



Mary Phillips lived to the grand age of 82 years and died in early 1922

 

NOTES:

 

 This document has been reproduced from the original held by Bruce Castle Museum, Tottenham, which was presented by a Mrs. J Schwitzer in 1981. The photographs and maps have been added as part of this reproduction.

 

On the pages above we have shown a series of Census reports for the Phillips family during their years spent residing in Tottenham .  Hopefully the clarity of the images are adequate for this purpose. For some reason Mary E Phillips is not shown as residing at 1 Lordship lane in 1861 but her parents John & Mary Phillips are listed.

 

Article prepared by Alan Swain May 2021 - From original written by Mary E Phillips.

Background Image- a house on Tottenham Green

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